In short
In December Essaouira stays mild by day — 19°C, usually sunny — but cool at night, around 11°C, with the sea at 18°C and about six rainy days. The first half of the month is quiet and cheap; the Christmas and New Year holidays fill the town, so book early if you're coming for either.
The month in numbers · December
Long-term averages
- 19°C
- daytime high
- 11°C
- night low
- 18°C
- sea temperature
- 10 kn
- average wind
- 6
- days of rain
- 7 h
- hours of sun a day
December in Essaouira is two months in one. The first half carries on November's calm: a quiet town, low prices, sunny terraces at lunchtime. The second half brings the holiday crowd — French, Northern Europeans and Moroccans from the big cities — looking for a Christmas without snow and a New Year's Eve facing the ocean.
Either way, it is pleasant by day and cool at night. This is the month you understand why riads have fireplaces.
The weather
Expect 19°C by day and 11°C at night, with seven hours of sunshine. Fine days are still the majority: blue skies, dry air, low light across the ramparts. About six rainy days in the month, usually bunched together as an Atlantic low passes, then the sky clears.
These are the shortest days of the year: sunrise is around 8.30am and sunset around 6.40pm. Mornings start late, and the town's day naturally shifts towards lunchtime.
The sea
18°C. A quick swim is still possible on a good day, but December belongs to surfers. The winter swell arrives, longer and more powerful than in summer: experienced surfers head to Sidi Kaouki, and beginners learn in the morning in the most sheltered part of the bay, with a school that picks the right slot.
Bring — or borrow — a 4/3 for surfing; schools provide one.
The wind
Around 10 knots on average: the relative calm of winter. Summer's daily thermal has gone, and the wind only comes with weather systems. For kiters, December offers occasional chances; for everyone else it means the beach and terraces are pleasant in the afternoon without being sandblasted.
What to do in December
- The medina and the port, in the midday sun, when it is mildest.
- The hammam, the best moment of the day when the air cools in late afternoon.
- A cooking class, three warm hours ending in lunch.
- A day at Sidi Kaouki or in the argan forest, on a fine day.
- Sunset on the Skala, around 6.30pm, with a jacket.
Christmas and New Year
Christmas is not a public holiday in Morocco: on 25 December the souks, banks and transport all run normally. But Essaouira is a well-established year-end destination, and the town gets ready for it.
- Prices rise over the last two weeks of December, often sharply for the night of the 31st.
- The best riads fill early: for New Year, book in the autumn.
- Many riads and hotels host a New Year's Eve dinner. Ask when you book; it is often the best table in town that night.
- Buses from Marrakech are full around the holidays. Buy your return ticket as soon as you arrive.
Where to stay
This is the month when a heated room matters more than the view. The stone houses of the medina hold the damp, and an open courtyard cools the whole house at night. Ask explicitly whether the room is heated, and favour riads with a fireplace in the lounge.
Our picks are here: riads in Essaouira.
What to pack
- A properly warm jacket for the evening, and a jumper for inside the riad.
- A waterproof windbreaker rather than an umbrella.
- Closed shoes: the paved alleys are slippery after rain.
- Sunglasses: the winter sun is low and bright.
- A swimsuit, for the hammam at the very least.
The verdict
An excellent month if you want mildness and light without summer. The first half is the most pleasant and cheapest; the second is more festive and more expensive. Either way, choose a heated room and keep the afternoons for the town rather than the beach.
The month before is milder and quieter: see Essaouira in November. The month after is the calmest of the year: Essaouira in January.
Common questions
What is the weather like in Essaouira in December?
Around 19°C by day and 11°C at night, with seven hours of sun a day and half a dozen rainy days across the month. Sunny days are still the rule; the evenings call for a proper jacket.
Can you swim in Essaouira in December?
The sea is around 18°C. A quick swim is possible on a sunny day, but this is really surfers' season, in a 4/3 wetsuit. It is not a beach month in the summer sense.
Is Essaouira a good idea for Christmas or New Year?
Yes, it is a favourite year-end escape for Europeans and for Moroccans from Casablanca and Marrakech. It is milder than Europe, lively without being overrun, and many riads host a New Year's Eve dinner. Book early: the best places are full by November.
Are riads cold in December?
Often, yes. Stone houses hold the damp and many riads only have portable heaters. Before you book, ask whether the room is heated, and prefer rooms that don't open straight onto the open courtyard.
Is Christmas a public holiday in Morocco?
No. 25 December is an ordinary day: souks, offices and transport run as normal. Hotels and restaurants with many European guests often put on a festive menu, though.
