In short
Essaouira is one of the best places in Morocco to learn to surf: the bay has a sandy bottom, gentle waves and surf schools all along the beach. Surf in the morning, before the wind; the best waves come from October to March, and Sidi Kaouki, 25 km south, takes over as you improve.
Essaouira does not have Morocco's most famous waves (Taghazout and Imsouane take care of that), but it has something rarer: a bay where you actually learn. A sandy bottom, a slow wave, plenty of space, and surf schools all along the beach.
Here is how to make the most of it, whatever your level and whatever the season.
Why the bay is ideal for beginners
Essaouira's main beach is a long arc of sand, sheltered from the big swell by Mogador island offshore. Waves arrive weakened and roll in slowly over sand: no reef and no rocks underwater where you learn.
Most beginners stand up in their first lesson. And because the bay is wide, nobody is on top of each other, even in August.
The catch is the wind. The trade wind builds from late morning and chops the waves up in the afternoon, especially from April to September. The golden rule: surf in the morning.
The best season for your level
- October to March, the wave season. Winter swells are more consistent, often one to two metres, and the wind is lighter. This is the best time if you can already stand up, and on some days you can surf all day.
- May to September, the beginner season. Waves are smaller and softer in the morning. Ideal for a first lesson, much less so for an experienced surfer: the afternoons belong to the kitesurfers.
The water is cool all year, from about 16 to 22°C depending on the season. A 3/2 wetsuit is enough from May to November; in midwinter a 4/3 is more comfortable.
The spots, from easiest to hardest
Essaouira bay, to learn
The schools' spot, ten minutes' walk from the medina. Gentle waves, sandy bottom, instructors on the beach. Stay in front of the schools and avoid the far south end of the beach: the mouth of the Oued Ksob creates a dangerous current.
Sidi Kaouki, to improve
25 km south, a long exposed beach with several peaks, lefts and rights, more powerful waves and far fewer people. It is the natural next step after a few lessons in the bay. Go by grand taxi from Bab Doukkala or by car, ideally in the morning, and you can stay a few steps from the water. The easiest way the first time is an organised surf day, with transport, boards and lunch included.
Cap Sim, for confident surfers
Between Diabat and Sidi Kaouki, a rocky point with a long left when the swell comes from the north. It is an intermediate-and-up spot: the bottom does not forgive you the way the bay does. There are no facilities: take water, and do not go alone.
Moulay Bouzerktoun, for experts
North of Essaouira, about 25 km away, this spot is best known among windsurfers for its powerful waves and strong wind. Strictly for very experienced surfers, and never alone.
Further afield: Tafedna and Imsouane
Further south the coast runs on to Tafedna and then Imsouane, famous for its very long right-hander, which suits longboarders and advanced beginners alike. It is a day trip, not a session before lunch, and some Essaouira schools run it:
Taking lessons
At the school we recommend, a group lesson lasts two hours, with four students per instructor, soft-top board and wetsuit included, for €25; semi-private (one instructor for two) is €35 and private €45. Children can start from five. To really progress, a package of three to five sessions on consecutive days beats a one-off lesson.
What matters when choosing a school: qualified instructors, small groups, the morning slot and a wetsuit that fits. Here is the one we recommend:
Hiring a board
If you already surf, most schools rent boards and wetsuits by the half day or day, around €15 to €25 a day. Ask about the tide: the bay changes a lot between high and low tide, and the instructors know when it works.
Safety: three rules
- Surf in front of the schools, where there are people in the water and instructors on the beach.
- Stay away from the river mouth at the south end of the beach, where the current can be very strong.
- Respect priority. The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has right of way. As a beginner, stay in the white water, away from experienced surfers.
What about kitesurfing?
The wind that spoils the waves in the afternoon is exactly what kitesurfers come for: Essaouira is one of the best places in Africa to learn to kite, from March to October. Plenty of visitors do both: surf in the morning, kite in the afternoon.
Common questions
Is Essaouira good for beginner surfers?
Yes, it is one of the best places in Morocco to learn. The bay has a sandy bottom, slow and regular waves, and Mogador island shelters it from the big swell. Book a lesson in the morning, before the wind gets up.
When is the best time to surf in Essaouira?
October to March for waves, when the Atlantic swell is most consistent and the wind is lighter. In summer the waves are smaller and the wind blows every afternoon: perfect for beginners in the morning, less so for experienced surfers.
Do you need a wetsuit to surf in Essaouira?
Yes, all year. The water ranges from about 16 to 22°C through the year: a 3/2 is enough from May to November, and a 4/3 is more comfortable in winter. Schools include one in the price of a lesson.
How much is a surf lesson in Essaouira?
From €25 for a two-hour group lesson, board and wetsuit included, at the school we recommend; €35 semi-private and €45 private. Packages of 4 to 8 hours work out cheaper per hour.
Sidi Kaouki or Essaouira for surfing?
Essaouira to learn: the bay is sheltered and the bottom is sand. Sidi Kaouki to improve: the beach is more exposed, the waves are more powerful and there are fewer people in the water.
